by Michael Moss (Find this book)
A revelatory look at America's increasing consumption of unhealthy
products and at how the biggest food manufacturers ignore health risks,
and employ savvy advertising campaigns, to keep us hooked on the
ingredients that ensure big profit. In an era where morbid numbers of
people are living with diabetes, obesity and high blood pressure, New
York Times Pulitzer Prize-winning reporter Moss (Palace Coup, 1989)
discovers through ardent research--much of it interviews with current
and former executives of Kraft, PepsiCo and other massive
conglomerates--that there is shockingly little regulation of the
processes behind the design and sale of foods purposely laden with
dangerous levels of salt, sugar and fat. As the average American works
longer hours and spends more time outside of the home, the demand for
easy-to-cook and tasty meals has skyrocketed. In response, food giants
provide an enormous slate of processed food options, almost all of which
require immense amounts of salt, fat and/or sugar to cover the taste of
poor-quality ingredients. Pulling no punches, the author points out
that the recent trend of "healthy" items is no loss for these food
manufacturers, who capitalize on creating new lines of spinoff products
labeled "low-salt" or "sugar-free," when in fact those products require a
significant increase in one of the other triad of flavors to remain
palatable. Many products are laden with these ingredients in ways that
would surprise the consumer: A single cookie, for example, might require
several servings' worth of undetectable salt to retain its irresistible
crunch, while it also contains up to five teaspoons of sugar. Moss
breaks down the chemical science behind the molecular appeal of these
foods, as well as behind the advertising strategies that are so
successful in getting consumers to buy not only the "healthier" versions
of popular foods, but the originals, as well. If this trend is to be
reversed, he argues, it might take a social revolution of empowered
consumers, a goal within reach if accurate information is available and
pressure is put on these companies to dramatically alter the contents of
its processed foods. A shocking, galvanizing manifesto against the
corporations manipulating nutrition to fatten their bottom line--one of
the most important books of the year. COPYRIGHT(2013) Kirkus Reviews,
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.